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If you're building the surround in stone or block, the kit gives you everything that goes inside — burner, pan, ignition, and gas controls — ready to integrate.
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A complete kit includes the burner ring or linear burner, a stainless-steel burner pan sized to your fire pit opening, ignition (match-light, key-valve, or electronic spark depending on the system), a gas valve, and the flex line to connect to your fuel source. Higher-end kits add an emergency shutoff and a CSA-listed regulator.
Choose the kit by opening size, fuel type (natural gas or propane), and ignition style. Match-light kits are simplest and cheapest; key-valve adds a recessed safety valve at the patio edge; electronic spark is the most convenient and what we recommend for clients who'll use the fire pit weekly.
Most clients build the surround out of stacked stone, brick, or pavers — 36-48 inches outside diameter is the standard, with a 24-30 inch interior opening for the burner. The burner pan sits on a layer of fire-safe insulating board or pea gravel; the cap stones go around the pan with a small reveal so the flame is centered.
Allow for an access hatch in the side of the enclosure if you're using a key valve or want to reach the regulator. For propane, leave a hidden compartment or external location for the 20 lb tank.
Burner diameter should be 8-12 inches smaller than the interior opening of your enclosure — that gap is what shows fire glass or lava rock around the flame and prevents direct contact with the stone. A 24" burner needs a 32-36" opening; a 30" burner needs a 38-42" opening.
BTU rating is set by the burner size: a 24" burner runs ~65k BTUs, a 30" runs ~90k, a 36" runs ~125k. Higher BTU = taller flame and more heat, but also faster propane consumption.